Friday, March 20, 2009
Time for some camping and summer fun
Well spring is here and business is picking up fast. I haven't had much spare time to write anything new lately. It's just about time to start getting all the gear out and get ready for a short motorcycle camping trip up to the mountains. We usually take several trips to the Blue Ridge Mountains during the warm months to do a little camping and fishing. It's a beautiful area to visit and a great place just to relax and get away from it all. My buddy ryan has been working on his new site all about motor sports , including four wheelers and every other form of transportation you can think of, So check his site out and see what you think.
Monday, March 16, 2009
Car Maintenance|Detailing Your car
One area of car maintenance that doesn't get mentioned very often is taking care of the outside, Like the paint and wheels. The interior of a car needs maintenance as well. the outside of you car is constantly exposed to harsh elements. Sun beaming down on a car all day left outside during the summer can be extremely hard on the paint. Not to mention the interior, vinyl, leather and even cloth interiors are subject to deterioration from UV rays. It's good practice to keep protective treatment on the outer surfaces of your car and also to keep the interior wiped down with a good UV protectant as well. To pick up some professional auto detailing tips visit my buddy Ryan at http://autodetailingschool.blogspot.com/
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Auto Maintenance|CV Joints|Boots
The CV (constant velocity) joint has become the standard on most all front wheel drive cars.
The CV joint allows the drive shaft to transmit power from the differential to the wheels at variable angles.
While there is wear on these joints any time the car is in motion ,most failures are due to the CV joint boot rupturing allowing the grease to escape and dirt ant and debris to enter the joint.
A simple inspection of the CV joint boots on a regular basis will allow you to identify a problem before it causes considerable damage to the joint.
Most manufacturers offer replacement boots for the CV joints and it is far less expensive to replace the boot than to replace the entire CV joint (or in some cases the axle shaft assembly) after it has failed.
A clicking sound emitting from the front wheel when steering hard in one direction is usually an indication that a CV joint is bad.
The CV joint allows the drive shaft to transmit power from the differential to the wheels at variable angles.
While there is wear on these joints any time the car is in motion ,most failures are due to the CV joint boot rupturing allowing the grease to escape and dirt ant and debris to enter the joint.
A simple inspection of the CV joint boots on a regular basis will allow you to identify a problem before it causes considerable damage to the joint.
Most manufacturers offer replacement boots for the CV joints and it is far less expensive to replace the boot than to replace the entire CV joint (or in some cases the axle shaft assembly) after it has failed.
A clicking sound emitting from the front wheel when steering hard in one direction is usually an indication that a CV joint is bad.
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Auto Maintenance|Timing Belts
The timing belt is a third type of belt used on most modern autos that I didn't mention earlier, mainly because checking this belt for wear will go past the scope of this blog. Not that it's impossible for the knowledgeable DIYer to inspect or even replace
this belt , it's just that there are so many different types of cars and one would need a manual specific to the vehicle being worked on to have all the information needed to carry out this proceedure.
this belt , it's just that there are so many different types of cars and one would need a manual specific to the vehicle being worked on to have all the information needed to carry out this proceedure.Timing belts differ from other belts used on cars as it has cogs (or teeth) on it and the pulleys (actually sprockets) have matching cogs. The cogs are used to keep the cam and crankshaft in time with each other to insure that the valves are opening and closing at the proper time in relation to the piston position.
Most manufacturers have a recommended replacement interval for this belt as on some engines failure of the timing belt can cause the piston to come in contact with the valves which in turn could do some very costly damage.
It is a good idea to always replace or have the timing belt replaced at the intervals recommended by the manufacturer
It is a good idea to always replace or have the timing belt replaced at the intervals recommended by the manufacturer
Monday, February 9, 2009
Auto Repair|How to Change a Tire
Changing a Flat Tire
Most of us don't think much about changing a flat tire as it's just something we grew up knowing how to do , but for people that never had to, it can seem like an impossible task.
It would be wise to familiarize yourself with the process while at home one weekend, so if the need ever arises while on the road you will be prepared.
It would be wise to familiarize yourself with the process while at home one weekend, so if the need ever arises while on the road you will be prepared.
- Check to make sure you have all the tools needed for the job. (If you purchased your car new you should have everything, if you bought it used often times people won't put things back where they belong.)
- Do you have a lug wrench ? (This is a socket shaped tool that is used to remove the lugs from the wheel.)
- Do you have a jack and jack handle ? (some setups incorporate the lug wrench into the jack handle)
- Make sure the car is on firm level ground, preferably concrete or asphalt.
- Make sure car is in Park. (if automatic) or reverse (if a straight shift)
- Firmly set the parking brake.
- If you have any wheel chocks place them under the front and back of the tire diagonally across from the one you are changing.
- Locate the jack points under the car and place the jack at one of the points.
- Tighten jack under car. (do not raise the wheel at this point just get the jack firmly set in place)
- Break all the lugs loose with the lug wrench by turning them in a counter clockwise direction. (do not remove the lugs at this time just break them loose)
- Finish jacking the car up until the wheel being changed is clear of the ground.
- Finish removing lugs and remove the wheel.
- Replace with the spare , re-install the lugs and slightly tighten them with the lug wrench.
- Let the jack down and with the wheel firmly back on the ground re tighten all lugs again.
- Remove chocks put all your tools up and you're ready to ride again.
Sunday, February 8, 2009
Auto Maintenance Belts|Hoses
Belts need to be checked periodically for wear and deterioration.there are 3 common types of belts found on cars today : the serpentine belt, the cogged timing belt and the ever popular V belt.
Most newer cars are using the serpentine belt exclusively as it adds the convenience of allowing one belt to drive all the accessories. This setup uses a series of pull
eys both grooved and flat. The belt has grooves on the inside of it and a flat surface on the back side. the pulleys are arranged so accessories that pull the most load are driven from the grooved side to avoid belt slipping and premature wear. The tensioner pulley is in most cases spring loaded and keeps the belt at a preset tightness throughout the life of the belt. a good indication that a serpentine belt is headed for trouble are small cracks in the material to the inside of the belt (the grooved side).
Most cars using this system have an installation diagram located under the hood to help assist in re-routing the new belt. Usually all that is needed to change one of these belts is the proper size wrench or socket to release the pressure from the tensioner while the new belt is installed.
Serpentine Belts
Most newer cars are using the serpentine belt exclusively as it adds the convenience of allowing one belt to drive all the accessories. This setup uses a series of pull
eys both grooved and flat. The belt has grooves on the inside of it and a flat surface on the back side. the pulleys are arranged so accessories that pull the most load are driven from the grooved side to avoid belt slipping and premature wear. The tensioner pulley is in most cases spring loaded and keeps the belt at a preset tightness throughout the life of the belt. a good indication that a serpentine belt is headed for trouble are small cracks in the material to the inside of the belt (the grooved side).Most cars using this system have an installation diagram located under the hood to help assist in re-routing the new belt. Usually all that is needed to change one of these belts is the proper size wrench or socket to release the pressure from the tensioner while the new belt is installed.
V Belts
The V belt has been around for ages and until recently it was the primary design used on automobiles. One of the drawbacks of this system is a separate belt is needed to drive each accessory on the car and each belt has to be tensioned individually. Another 
drawback is if the back belt needs replacing all belts will have to be removed to get to it. One good advantage of this system is sometimes one belt breaking will not leave you stranded. As long as the water pump is still being driven you can "limp " the car to a repair shop. These types of belts actually load from the sides of the V and sometimes are hard to determine that they are worn past usability. as the sides become worn they ride deeper into the groove of the pulley to the point that they are riding on the bottom flat of the pulley and the belt ,at that point they are not making sufficiant contact to drive the accessory. This is eveident by the bottom of the pulley becoming "shiny" as the belt is rubbing against it. Another tell tell sign is the inner edges of the belt cracking. This is from the belt overheating as it is slipping in the groove of the pulley. It is a good practice to replace all the belts at the same time unless one broke because of an accessory failing and otherwise all the other belts are good.
When replacing belts always note that the pulleys are aligned with each other, a misaligned pulley could mean that a bearing is about to fail on that particular accessory, also turn each accessory pulley while the belts are removed to check for any rough feeling bearings, all pulleys should turn freely and smooth
drawback is if the back belt needs replacing all belts will have to be removed to get to it. One good advantage of this system is sometimes one belt breaking will not leave you stranded. As long as the water pump is still being driven you can "limp " the car to a repair shop. These types of belts actually load from the sides of the V and sometimes are hard to determine that they are worn past usability. as the sides become worn they ride deeper into the groove of the pulley to the point that they are riding on the bottom flat of the pulley and the belt ,at that point they are not making sufficiant contact to drive the accessory. This is eveident by the bottom of the pulley becoming "shiny" as the belt is rubbing against it. Another tell tell sign is the inner edges of the belt cracking. This is from the belt overheating as it is slipping in the groove of the pulley. It is a good practice to replace all the belts at the same time unless one broke because of an accessory failing and otherwise all the other belts are good.When replacing belts always note that the pulleys are aligned with each other, a misaligned pulley could mean that a bearing is about to fail on that particular accessory, also turn each accessory pulley while the belts are removed to check for any rough feeling bearings, all pulleys should turn freely and smooth
Coolant And Heater Hoses
It's a good idea to at least visually inspect radiator and heater hoses at least once a month.
With the engine cool squeeze the hoses with your hands and look for signs of cracking. the hoses should be firm but not soft, if they feel brittle when squeezing them it is a good sign to replace them. Check the hoses for chaffing as rubbing against other objects can lead to a worn area that is weakened and may blow out when pressure is built up. Also note any spots where fluids have came into contact with the hoses as they can become soft when exposed to oils, grease, or brake fluid. When the engine is hot and pressure is built up on the cooling system look for bulges, especially at each end of the hoses where they attach to the radiator and the engine, this is a common spot for fatigue. a busted radiator or heater hose can leak all the coolant out of the engine rapidly and cause the engine to overheat. This can lead to a very expensive repair. Do not try to "limp" an over heated engine to the next stop unless it is an emergency or unsafe to stop.
With the engine cool squeeze the hoses with your hands and look for signs of cracking. the hoses should be firm but not soft, if they feel brittle when squeezing them it is a good sign to replace them. Check the hoses for chaffing as rubbing against other objects can lead to a worn area that is weakened and may blow out when pressure is built up. Also note any spots where fluids have came into contact with the hoses as they can become soft when exposed to oils, grease, or brake fluid. When the engine is hot and pressure is built up on the cooling system look for bulges, especially at each end of the hoses where they attach to the radiator and the engine, this is a common spot for fatigue. a busted radiator or heater hose can leak all the coolant out of the engine rapidly and cause the engine to overheat. This can lead to a very expensive repair. Do not try to "limp" an over heated engine to the next stop unless it is an emergency or unsafe to stop.
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SD: Car Maitenance|Checking Fluid Levels
Okay for our first check under the hood let's start with checking all the fluids and what purpose they serve.
For this we will want the car parked on a level surface.
Make sure the engine is off and the keys are removed.
It will be best for this if the car is cool as you run a risk of getting burned by fluids if the car has not been off for a period of time.
Caution !!! Never remove a radiator cap from a Hot Engine Radiator.
For this we will want the car parked on a level surface.
Make sure the engine is off and the keys are removed.
It will be best for this if the car is cool as you run a risk of getting burned by fluids if the car has not been off for a period of time.
Caution !!! Never remove a radiator cap from a Hot Engine Radiator.
Let's start with the engine oil level.
Remove the dipstick ,wipe it clean, at this time note the marks on the end of the dipstick ,they are used to indicate oil level , re-insert it , remove again and observe the level mark as indicated by the stick.
If the oil level is low it is best to use the same brand of oil that is already being used in the engine.If you are unsure of what was put in the engine at last oil change, go with a good quality brand that is the weight specified by the engine manufacturer.
If the oil level is low it is best to use the same brand of oil that is already being used in the engine.If you are unsure of what was put in the engine at last oil change, go with a good quality brand that is the weight specified by the engine manufacturer.
Power Steering Fluid
Remove the cap from the power steering reservoir, wipe the dipstick clean, re-insert it into the reservoir, remove it again and note the level as indicated on the dipstick. If any fluid is needed to bring it up to the full mark, add the proper fluid as specified by your car manufacturer.
Remove the cap from the power steering reservoir, wipe the dipstick clean, re-insert it into the reservoir, remove it again and note the level as indicated on the dipstick. If any fluid is needed to bring it up to the full mark, add the proper fluid as specified by your car manufacturer.
Brake Fluid
Most manufactures are now using clear tanks for the brake fluid reservoir allowing you to see the fluid level without having to remove the cap. If you have a clear reservoir you should be able to see the fluid level through the tank and note the level by the indicators marked on the side of the reservoir. If yours is not of the clear design removing the cap is the only way to determine if you need to add fluid.If you need to add fluid to bring it up to proper level be sure to use a D.O.T approved fluid that meets the specifications of the car manufacturer .
Use care not to get any brake fluid on painted or plastic surfaces as it may cause damage or discoloration.
Again these are mostly clear bottles that you can readily see the level of through the side of the container. If it is low add washer fluid according to the directions provided on the brand of fluid you purchased (some can be used full strength ,some require diluting).
Double check that you are adding this to the washer fluid reservoir and not the engine coolant reservoir.
Most new cars have an overflow bottle on the cooling system, usually of a clear design that can be readily determined if the coolant is low. This system is not fool proof , I always like to remove the radiator cap and visually check the coolant level from inside the radiator. If the coolant is low add the proper anti-freeze coolant solution to bring it up to proper level and re-install the radiator cap firmly. Be sure to use a coolant mixture specified by the manufacture as a lot of new cars use special coolant designed to prevent rust and corrosion and older anti-freeze mixtures may cause damage.
Use care not to get any brake fluid on painted or plastic surfaces as it may cause damage or discoloration.
Windshield Washer Fluid
Again these are mostly clear bottles that you can readily see the level of through the side of the container. If it is low add washer fluid according to the directions provided on the brand of fluid you purchased (some can be used full strength ,some require diluting).
Double check that you are adding this to the washer fluid reservoir and not the engine coolant reservoir.
Engine Coolant Level (Radiator)
Warning!!!! Never remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system....Most new cars have an overflow bottle on the cooling system, usually of a clear design that can be readily determined if the coolant is low. This system is not fool proof , I always like to remove the radiator cap and visually check the coolant level from inside the radiator. If the coolant is low add the proper anti-freeze coolant solution to bring it up to proper level and re-install the radiator cap firmly. Be sure to use a coolant mixture specified by the manufacture as a lot of new cars use special coolant designed to prevent rust and corrosion and older anti-freeze mixtures may cause damage.
Automatic Transmission Fluid
This should be our last fluid check from under the hood and it will require that we start the engine.
- Firmly set the parking brake
- Make sure gear selector is in park
- Start the engine
- Remove the transmission dipstick
- Wipe it clean and note the indicator marks at the end of the stick
- Re-insert dipstick firmly
- Remove dipstick and note oil level on the stick according to the indicator marks
- If fluid level is low add the proper automatic transmission fluid through the dipstick tube to bring up to proper level. (this is achieved with a funnel placed in the opening of the tube that you removed the dipstick from and adding oil directly through the tube)
Easy DIY Car Inspections|Maintenance
The #1 cause of automotive breakdowns is lack of proper maintenance,inspection, and repairs.
While breakdowns can be at best a great inconvenience the good news is with a little time spent doing some inspection and maintenance they can often be prevented.
Most people just drive until something breaks then they want to cuss at the car and call it a piece of junk ,the truth is it's just a machine and any thing with moving parts invariably has wear involved.
The first step in doing some routine maintenance is familiarize yourself with the parts of your car that need attention regularly to keep everything rolling along smoothly.
If you bought your car new an owners manual should have accompanied the vehicle during purchase and most owners manuals have a routine maintenance guide in the book.
It's always good to keep a record of the inspections and maintenance you have performed (or had done by someone else) and the mileage when the work was done.
Okay , let's start with the basics and work our way into more technical areas. you may want to make a copy of this list to reference until you get used to doing these checks.
While breakdowns can be at best a great inconvenience the good news is with a little time spent doing some inspection and maintenance they can often be prevented.
Most people just drive until something breaks then they want to cuss at the car and call it a piece of junk ,the truth is it's just a machine and any thing with moving parts invariably has wear involved.
The first step in doing some routine maintenance is familiarize yourself with the parts of your car that need attention regularly to keep everything rolling along smoothly.
If you bought your car new an owners manual should have accompanied the vehicle during purchase and most owners manuals have a routine maintenance guide in the book.
It's always good to keep a record of the inspections and maintenance you have performed (or had done by someone else) and the mileage when the work was done.
Okay , let's start with the basics and work our way into more technical areas. you may want to make a copy of this list to reference until you get used to doing these checks.
Simple outside checks to keep you aware of any problems before they become major
- Visually check tires for wear,cuts, and low air pressure ( daily)
- All can lead to tire failure and it's better to have it repaired or replaced at your convenience than on the side of the road
- While visual inspection can give you an immediate determination of a problem, it's impossible to see if the pressure is exactly what it should be for optimum performance. Low air pressure can cause premature wear, tire overheating and degraded fuel mileage and tire failure.
- Don't forget to check the air pressure in the spare tire occasionally. The only thing more disappointing than having a flat on the road is discovering the spare is flat too!!
- rust lines leading from the lug nuts on a wheel can indicate loose lug nuts and this can be a potential accident waiting to happen , not to mention a very costly repair should they strip or break off.
- What you're looking for here are signs of fluid or grease streaming to the outer edges of the tire or accumulating inside the rim.
- This quick and easy inspection offers up some information to alert you of possible leaks in the brakes system and/or wheel seals that may be getting ready to fail.
- when doing this check don't forget the high beams and turn indicators
7. Visually check under car to make sure nothing is loose and/or hanging down ie exhaust, wires, mufflers. Also look for any fluids leaking
8. Walk around and check for loose items on your car , antennas, mirrors, chrome or moulding.
Under the Hood
Let's start this section by locating and familiarizing yourself with the parts we are going to be inspecting.
If you have any problem locating these don't hesitate to ask for help , most auto parts stores will be happy to show you where these are in hopes that you do business with them when you need parts.
If you have any problem locating these don't hesitate to ask for help , most auto parts stores will be happy to show you where these are in hopes that you do business with them when you need parts.
(Caution)
All following checks should be performed with engine off and keys removed to prevent anyone from accidentally starting engine while you are inspecting the car.
The only exception to this is checking automatic transmission fluid level.
The only exception to this is checking automatic transmission fluid level.
- Engine oil dipstick
- Engine oil filler cap
- Transmission dipstick (automatic only) (most automatic transmissions are filled through the dipstick tube)
- Power steering dipstick (most times this is part of the cap on the power steering pump)
- Brake fluid reservoir (usually located on drivers side firewall)
- Engine coolant reservoir (usually close to radiator filler cap)
- Engine radiator (located in the front directly behind grille) (WARNING !!! never remove radiator cap when engine is HOT!!!
- Fan belt/s and accessory drive belt/s (located on the front of the engine) (note- most front wheel drive vehicles have the engine turned sideways so the front of the engine may be located behind the left front wheel)
- Windshield washer fluid reservoir.
- Battery (should be easily identified as large square object with 2 large cables attached)
Now that you have located all the items we will be inspecting we will divide each item into a section and discuss what we a re looking for and what if any repairs you will be able to make .
Ready?
Ready?
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